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Modelled Nearshore Wave Conditions, Happisburgh, UK (March to December 2019).

Update Frequency: Not Planned
Latest Data Update: 2023-05-11
Status: Completed
Online Status: ONLINE
Publication State: Citable
Publication Date: 2023-08-11
DOI Publication Date: 2023-10-11
Download Stats: last 12 months
Dataset Size: 439 Files | 45GB


This dataset contains outputs from the SWAN (Simulated Waves Nearshore) model, which propagates wave conditions to the nearshore. The outputs are compressed into netcdf files, and contain time series of hourly sea states at the study site including wave height, direction, energy dissipation, and peak period. The latitude and longitude of the south-west grid corner is latitude 52.772629, longitude 1.344987. The series are given hourly, from (March 23, 2019-December 31, 2019) inclusive. These data are validated against an offshore buoy. The full year’s series is split into smaller time periods, numbered from 8 to 25. The data are given on a 26 km x 26 km grid, the coarse grid has a resolution of 0.1 km (matrix size 261x261), and the nested grid has a resolution of 10 m (matrix size 601x401). The hourly times corresponding to each variable is contained in an accompanying .csv file. The SWAN model was forced with bathymetry from the OceanWise 1 Arc Second Digital Elevation Model, and climate conditions from the ERA5 dataset. The data was collected to provide corresponding wave conditions to the LiDAR (Light Detection And Ranging) scans, to help determine the relationship between the wave conditions and the behaviour of the foreshore. The British Geological Survey (BGS) and Nottingham University were responsible for processing the model data, funded by the UK Natural Environment Research Council (NE/M004996/1; BLUE-coast project) and NERC’s ENVISION Doctoral Training Programme (NE/S007423/1).

Citable as:  Payo Garcia, A.; Shaw, M.; Brooks, T.; Briganti, R.; Gomez-Pazo, A.; Ruffini, G.; Appleton, M. (2023): Modelled Nearshore Wave Conditions, Happisburgh, UK (March to December 2019).. NERC British Oceanographic Data Centre, 11 October 2023. doi:10.5285/14dd5580eab9410fb3696340711b1d67.
Abbreviation: Not defined
Keywords: coast, cliff, beach, shore, platform, Happisburgh, LiDAR, model, meteorology, oceanography


Previous Info:
No news update for this record
Previously used record identifiers:
No related previous identifiers.
Access rules:
Public data: access to these data is available to both registered and non-registered users.
Use of these data is covered by the following licence: When using these data you must cite them correctly using the citation given on the CEDA Data Catalogue record.
Data lineage:

The bathymetry used to force the model is from the OceanWise 1 Arc Second Digital Elevation Model. The wave conditions at the corners of the grid, used to force the model, come from the ERA5 global climate variable estimates. The outputs are archived on the British Oceanographic Data Centre (BODC)'s space at the Centre for Environmental Data Analysis (CEDA) and assigned a DOI. No quality control procedures were applied by BODC.

Data Quality:
The data- specifically the significant wave height, spectral period m02, mean direction - were validated against a Channel Coast Observatory buoy. UTM (Universal Transverse Mercator) co-ordinates Easting: 402309, Northing: 5853906.
File Format:
Data are CF-Compliant NetCDF formatted and .csv data files

Process overview

This dataset was generated by the computation detailed below.

Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)


SWAN propagates offshore wave conditions to the nearshore, and can account for: Wave propagation in time and space, shoaling, refraction due to current and depth, frequency shifting due to currents and non-stationary depth. Wave generation by wind. Three- and four-wave interactions. Whitecapping, bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. Dissipation due to aquatic vegetation, turbulent flow and viscous fluid mud. Wave-induced set-up. Propagation from laboratory up to global scales. Transmission through and reflection (specular and diffuse) against obstacles. Diffraction.

Input Description


Output Description


Software Reference


  • var_id: Depth
  • var_id: Dir
  • var_id: Dissip
  • var_id: Dspr
  • var_id: Hsig
  • var_id: Qb
  • var_id: RTpeak
  • var_id: Tm01
  • var_id: Tm02
  • var_id: Tm_10

Co-ordinate Variables

Temporal Range
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Geographic Extent